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- <text id=94TT1310>
- <title>
- Sep. 26, 1994: Fashion:Getting a Leg Up
- </title>
- <history>
- TIME--The Weekly Newsmagazine--1994
- Sep. 26, 1994 Taking Over Haiti
- </history>
- <article>
- <source>Time Magazine</source>
- <hdr>
- ARTS & MEDIA/FASHION, Page 75
- Getting a Leg Up
- </hdr>
- <body>
- <p> For that hot, sexy look, thigh-highs are the thing for runway
- models and grannies
- </p>
- <p>By Martha Duffy--Reported by Hannah Bloch/ New York
- </p>
- <p> In olden days a glimpse of stocking was looked on as something
- shocking, as Cole Porter noted. But now, God knows, anything
- goes. And now what's going is a new wrinkle in hose credited
- by some fashion experts to Ralph Lauren. In magazine ads, Lauren's
- young line, called Ralph, features a model straddling a chair.
- She wears a skirt about the length of a large handkerchief,
- and her stockings, such as they are, reach only to her thighs.
- Thus is born a fad. The stockings are called thigh-highs and
- a lot of women are making a run on them.
- </p>
- <p> Thigh-highs are all over the stores, selling for between $6
- and $60, in black, navy and white, and even plaids, Argyles,
- fancy lace and silk blends. "It's a lot of fashion for a little
- price," says Kal Ruttenstein, Bloomingdale's veteran vice president
- for fashion direction. Comments Benny Lin, Macy's fashion director:
- "It's not just a metropolitan thing--it's selling well all
- over."
- </p>
- <p> The new length, which accentuates not so much the stocking as
- the ample amount of thigh above it, did not spring spontaneously
- from Lauren's sketch pad. Its 19th century antecedent is the
- gartered stocking. In those times, for reasons that probably
- escape today's young generations, that fashion was considered
- disturbingly sexy (but then, so was the bustle). Nowadays, what
- women seem to want is unhampered, ungartered, unmitigated eroticism
- a la Lolita. Underwear is already worn on the outside--stuff
- that looks as if it comes from the lingerie department (and
- often does), and thigh-highs only complement the picture.
- </p>
- <p> What the picture shows is an attempt to look as tarty as possible
- in an impossibly safe-sex world. "There's a blurring of the
- boundary between the taboo and what's acceptable," says author
- Valerie Steele (Women of Fashion), "with a constant testing
- of deviant or sexual styles." The effect is that of the "naughty
- schoolgirl"--somewhat more innocent than that found in a child-porn
- magazine, but suggestive of it nonetheless.
- </p>
- <p> Designer Geoffrey Beene, who scrupulously avoids ephemera, says,
- "I wouldn't make fun of women by dressing them as children.
- It's a trick that has been used by streetwalkers in Paris for
- years." That does not seem to bother other rulers of fashion.
- Karl Lagerfeld likes the style, though he thinks it looks best
- on women with "runway bodies."
- </p>
- <p> Women also need the nerve to wear only a hint of a skirt to
- make thigh-highs work; others need not apply. The question that
- remains, however, is whether this trend has legs. So far, the
- answer is yes, though some customers are cautious. Louise Voelker,
- 26, a San Francisco sales representative, owns three pairs of
- thigh-highs and wears them to the office. But she also wears
- skirts that cover her thighs, so nobody's the wiser. "The world
- sees me in one way," she explains, "and I know I'm wearing thigh-highs.
- Wouldn't they be shocked if they knew!"
- </p>
- <p> Meanwhile, a Saks Fifth Avenue salesclerk reports selling a
- pair of Lauren red plaids to a 64-year-old grandmother who plans
- to wear them, thighs flashing, with a mini-skirt. That's more
- like it. Still, fads being what they are, Grandmother might
- well be advised to save her panty hose, God knows.
- </p>
-
- </body>
- </article>
- </text>
-
-